K11 Stereo Wiring diagram - what you need to know

Hi all,

Thought I would post up my findings for today. Before you do any electrical work on your Micra, make sure you disconnect the NEGATIVE side of your battery to avoid short circuiting the system. Especially seeing as there isnt a complete wiring colour list on these forums and finding one on the UK sites can be a real pain in the behind (for me anyway).



--POWER---

-Blue with Black Stripe = ACC 12V (ignition power)
-Red with Black Stripe = Constant 12V (if your stereo doesnt have a fuse on its Constant 12V wire, BUY ONE!)
-Red with Blue Stripe = Illumination wire
-Black = Ground (although I suggest you use your own, or multiple ground points)

--FRONT SPEAKERS--

RIGHT: Brown wire and Black with Red stripe (Positive/negative unknown)
LEFT: Blue wire and Black with White Stripe (Positive/negative unknown)

You will notice that there are TWO Black wires with red stripes. To test which one is the speaker and which one is the power wire, get yourself a fully charged AA battery and put the BROWN wire on one end of the battery and one of the Black with Red stripe wires on the other side of the battery. When you get the right wire the right hand speaker will make clicking noises.

According to the Haynes Manual, all K11 have front speaker crossovers somewhere in the dash. These crossovers (most likely very simple units) are for the optional A-Pillar tweeter which came in many higher grade models, in Australia this being fully optioned Series 2 SLX and all Series 2 Super S. For optimal sound quality, I highly recommend running your own wires for the front speakers as the standard series 2 equipment is rather lacking.

--REAR SPEAKERS--

RIGHT: Red with Black stripe and Black with Pink stripe (positive/negative unknown)
LEFT: Black with Yellow stripe and Red with Yellow stripe (positive and negative unknown)

I hope this helps.

Tom - aka Yom.

Oh PS: you're going to hurt yourself installing a stereo into your K11 if you don't disconnect your battery. I can't emphasise this enough!

One more thing I completely forgot, for us Australians we usually get different antenna plugs.

You'll need to buy one of these:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PA2038&CATID=24&keywords
=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&price
Min=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=526

Copy that link and put it into your browser, minus the 2 spaces I had to put in it to fit onto the page.

That should be in the Information pages! Oh how i needed this when i got my stereo. I spent $40 to get my stereo installed professionally, AND he still stuffed it up. Might have to re-install with all this juicy information!

Thanks Yom!
From Tom.
:D

i got one of these when i put my HU in: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/43acce8303c45b902740c0a87f9c0751/Product/View/P2001

was the biggest pain ever to fit, i have proper coax striper and yeah...heh good luck to you, the problem is the centre wire is not a solid copper wire (like Tv coax)its like 4 really fine strands of wire. i suggest the adapter from jaycar,

Alex

I purchased the jaycar European to Motorola adapter today and it fitted perfectly. Cost $3.50

Ohkay, I might have made a mistake guys.

For the front speakers, I MIGHT have the sides switched.

Not that its a worry, because (if you're using a terminal block like you should be) swapping wires around isnt a major pain the behind.

Terminal Blocks: Buy it while you're at Jaycar. You will need the 12 block to use all existing Micra wiring.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?
ID=HM3196&CATID=&keywords=terminal+block&SPECIAL=
&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&
pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

Again, copy that whole link and remove the spaces I had to put in it.

The 10amp block is easier to work with - you dont need a jewlers/precision screwdriver set to operate the slugs.

Cheers

I just did my stereo today too. for the speaker wires, use the solid coloured wires as the positive and the striped wires as the negative. it all worked pretty well.

just popped a a CD player in my LX, thanks HEAPS for the Wiring diagram. Worked a treat for someone who has never attempted anything remotely DIY with a car.

Now I'm even thinking of buying some better speakers and even wacking some ones in the back also :)

My 1997 JDM K11 had the following wire colours

G +12V Ignition Blue w/ White stripe
H +12V Illumination Red w/ Blue stripe
I Front Right Spkr+ Brown
J Front Left Spkr+ Blue
M +12V Battery Red w/ Black stripe
O Front Right Spkr- Black w/ Red stripe
P Front Left Spkr- Black w/ White stripe


As a note, a JDM R33 Skyline had the same plug but power wires are slightly different colours

A Rear Right Spkr+ Orange
C Rear Right Spkr- Black w/ Pink stripe
D Rear Left Spkr+ Light Green
E Rear Left Spkr- Black w/ Yellow stripe
G +12V Ignition Blue w/ Yellow stripe
H +12V Illumination Red w/ Blue stripe
I Front Right Spkr+ Brown
J Front Left Spkr+ Blue
M +12V Battery Red w/ White stripe
N Power antenna Green w/ Red stripe
O Front Right Spkr- Black w/ Red stripe
P Front Left Spkr- Black w/ White stripe

I think with speaker wires, it doesnt matter which way u connect the + and -, as long as all speakers are connected the same.

Well I can't say I've ever heard any difference but the speaker will be moving in the opposite direction, so I belive the following from Wikipedia is probably quite true:

If the wires for left and right speakers (in a stereo setup) are not connected in phase with each other (the + and - connections on the speaker and amplifier should be connected to each other) the loudspeakers will be out of phase and destructive sound wave interference will occur when a common signal is sent to each speaker. In this case, any motion one cone (usually the woofer) makes will be opposite to the other. This type of wiring error doesn't damage speakers but does create inverse sound waves that partially cancel those from the other speaker. Due to the spacing of the speakers, the bass frequencies are where this phenomenon is most apparent. A simple way to check for wiring phase problems is to temporarily adjust the bass tone control up and the treble control down, then move the balance control so that sound is alternately heard from the left and right speakers alone, and both together. If the music has the bass tones mixed to mono (a common practice even today) the bass should be loudest with the control centered. If the bass is louder with only one channel playing, either there is a wiring error, or the music signal is not mono in the low bass.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudspeaker

looks cooler if they are kicking outwards, and will generally sound a little better i believe

so keep + to + and _ to _

a multimeter on continuity is the best way to check for this!

Hi I have just come on this entry. And I thought that someone here can help.

I found this Rear speaker connector behind my radio(see in photo). Is not connected to the radio, but can be connected. Then i searched the other end of connector and found it. But there is another connector(see in photo) in there, for what is that connector with 2 cables (Red with Black Stripe and Red with Blue Stripe ) is it also
- Red with Blue Stripe = Illumination wire
- Red with Black Stripe = Constant 12V

I want to connect speakers to the end of the rear connector, but what I do then with the other connector?

Sorry for bad english :/

Also if wiring isn't your thing I managed to find an adaptor from Autoleads for my 1993 K11 after alot of trouble which sorted out my problem:-


Nissan Ford ISO Harness Lead

Autoleads part number : PC2-13-4 :)

I just want to know for what the Connector(yellow???) is?
I connect the speakers to the rear connector and what I do with the other(yellow ???).
(I do not have to join for an amplifier)