NCVT Selector

Hi all,

I am on my second micra and am wondering if other people with NCVT have trouble going from drive into reverse and vice-versa while the engine is running. Is it an easy fix or should I just put up with it.

David

Just in case anybody else wants to know...I rang up heaps of places and found someone who has dealt with a few.

Automatic Transmissions R Us in Osborne Park

Went there and they were very helpful and seemed to know what they were talking about....concluded it was the torque convert and could cost about $1000 to $2000 to replace with new torque convert.

Seems at least 4 cars have had the same problem before that they have seen.

Hello David
We have a micra auto
Automatic Transmissions are us replaced the Powder clutch (Tourque converter) with a new one I purchased from Total Nissan $2,400.00 plus $ cant remember trans r us charged 18 months ago
The promlem was identical to yours, The pwder clutch has iron filings whick are magnetised to give the drive, these get rusty and stick together wich causes the problem, In the UK you can get a recon unit 1/2 the price of a new one but its exchange and the freight bothe ways makes a new one fron Nissan feasable.

Has been working well since

We are having a problem at the moment with the car failing to proceed, Total Nissan charged me $150ish to reset the computer and test the switches? no problem found but the car still fails to proceed
I got the car home and started my own investigation to find oil on the clutch pick up brushes, cleaned these and the slipring and away we go again
oil keeps coming back (engine oil) so it looks like i will have to find the source.
Nissan dealers in the UK are good to phone for help as they know the cars unlike here in Australia.
am considering converting to manual any body out ther got the bits?

I noticed that your car has been garaged a lot. Mine had about 40,000 on the clock one year ago, so it must have been garaged a lot too...before I bought it. I wonder if that increases the likelyhood fo the rust and thus replacement being needed.

One other question...when you got it repaired/replaced was it impossible to change or was it just annoying? Do you know how quickly it goes...how long I can expect to be able to postpone replacement?

Hello David It was almost impossible to move the selector
My step son ( brain dead )actually broke the lever off
I was able to weld the mechanism back together ok
we then had the powder clutch replaced.
regards

Michael

Hello again David
with regards to time
it was a couple of tears hard to move some times and then it started to fail quickly
Parts were easy and quick to get ex Melbourne.

I have a Nissan Micra ( CVT ) that has the problem of being hard ( almost impossibble ) to shift from park or neutral in to drive. From park to reverse is ok, or when the motor is not running it shifts easy. Once in gear it performs great.
Is this fixed by replacing the "powder clutch ? " Can I get this done in Perth WA ? Is it expensive ? Cheers

Check with Automatic Transmissions R Us in Osborne Park they were helpful, although I have decided to keep driving as is and just keep 'tapping' it until it goes in.

Thanks for that . Can't get mine in to drive anyway except " ripping" it quickly from park straight through.
Otherwise it starts to grind like a gear mesh prob.

You may want to try this if you haven't already.

The following should put the automatic (N-CVT) gearbox into its self diagnostic test, helping you narrow down any problems youre experiencing.

Self Diagnostic Method:

1. Keeping the ignition off and all pedals released move the selector / gear lever to the "D" position.

2. Turn ignition on - but dont start the vehicle.

3. Depress and hold brake pedal, then fully depress and hold the accelerator pedal.

4. Then move the selector / gear lever in the following order: Ds - D - N - R - P

5. Release the accelerator pedal, then the brake.

6. Start the car...(gear lever still in "P")

7. The N-CVT dashboard warning light will start to blink, count them and compare with the fault code list below)

8. Switch off ignition to stop self diagnostic procedure.

-----------------------------------------------------

The fault code output blinks are made up as follows:

No fault found: There is a 2 second pause, followed by the light remaining on for 2 seconds and then 7 short on/off second blinks.

If a fault is detected one of these 7 short blinks will remain on longer than the others.

Fault Code 1 - The first blink is on longer than the others - Accelerator or accelerator position switch circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code 2 - The second blink is on longer than the others - Inhibit switch circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code 3 - The third blink is on longer than the others - Vehicle speed sensor circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code 4 - The fourth blink is on longer than the others - electro-magnetic clutch coil circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code 5 - The fifth blink is on longer than the others - Line pressure solenoid circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code 6 - The sixth blink is on longer than the others - Torque signal circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code 7 - The seventh blink is on longer than the others - ABS signal or idle up relay circuit is short circuited or diconnected.

Fault Code No Number - Lamp blinks at 4Hz repeatedly - Battery supply fault or memory back-up fault.

Fault Code No Number - Lamp does not blink - Check all components.

Thanks..can't wait to check if fault code 4 comes up.
Out of interest, how would I check if the electro magnetic clutch coil was diss connected ?